Hey guys,
Just started to shoot super 8 and I have a Canon 518SV.
Got an old hanimex projector out and had a look. This was basically a muck around film to see what it would look like... I did a few things without thinking (shooting into the sun with only using auto exposure etc)... and you can tell a huge difference between into and back to the sun. But I am not sure what super 8 is suposed to look like as I have never really seen much of it.
Most the shots seemed to lack a bit of colour (except for the one directly with my back to the sun) and looked kinda washed out. I only ever used Auto exposure letting the light meter do its job itself.. but it seemed to be unstable. I have no idea about getting the right settings.. my camera does have a manual exposure control. Just the film looks "mucky" I guess.. with the exception of 1 or 2 shots.
The other thing is the daylight filter. I am unsure if I have to do something to activate it or not. Kodachrome pack says daylight with number 85 filter.
My camera manual says it has a built in filter which is cancelled when outdoor film is placed in or a key is placed in the top. Is this right to leave it be to shoot outdoors or do I need to put the key in or buy a number 85 filter?
Finally is this camera an ok camera? and should I start using manual exposure?
If anyone has some tips or ideas that would greatly help, thanks.
Maybe Mr. Blackstock can help you out.
<font size="2" face="verdana, sans-serif">Originally posted by Mr Blackstock:
I guess the more extras a camera has, the more flexible and i suppose the better it is. The cannons are the best bet i guess, I have a 518sv, but my favorite is my sankyo cm400. I value cost highly when looking at a camera.
Although one day i would love a high end camera!
Generally, when shooting into light, your picture may look "muted" because of the backlight and lens flare.
Once you transfer your super-8 film to video you can readjust your video levels and take out some of the backlight by readjusting your "set-up" level. This in turn will help bring out more color in the overall picture.
The 85 filter is for outdoors when using tungsten balanced film. K-40 is tungsten balanced, so when you use it outdoors, you use the 85 filter, this in turn makes the ASA rating a 25 with the filter, 40 ASA without the filter. You should be able to see the 85 filter by looking at the front of lens. Zoom the lens in and out as you look through the front of the lens and you should see the 85 filter.
Film is not video. It's not point and shoot. Think first, then shoot. That'll solve many of your problems. Like... shooting into the sun. That's a no-no. Don't ignore backlight and so on. Inexpensive as it is, super 8 can get expensive if you don't plan your shots. Even if you're just "mucking around".
Don't, or should I say NEVER trust automatic settings on your camera. If your camera's light meter is proven, you can trust it for shots with no value, meaning you're not taking the risk of blowing a scene because you didn't use a light meter and match up the speed of the film with the f.stop, feed it into the camera and lock it. I think I'll say NEVER trust automatic settings unless you're doing it for fun and aren't seriously concerned with the end result. Kodachrome 40 allows for very little latitude against over/under exposure.
Use a tripod or at least, a monopod for stability. Eliminating judder can, to some degree, prevent "washing out". If you have to move about without supporting the camera, do it slowing and carefully.
Go to ebay and buy some super 8 movies and watch them on your projector. Not S8 videos, mind you, but reels of printed film. Then you'll know how it's supposed to look.
Unless you do a high res transfer (which means only to digital and not to VHS), your quality will degrade. If I'm not mistaken, Super 8 is about 480 horizontal lines while VHS is about 240. So even if your camera work is good and you transfer to VHS, it may not look good. If you're going to transfer, make certain the lab is using equipment capable of capturing with at least the same resolution as the camera you shot with. Otherwise, what you shot is not what you'll get.
Is your camera okay? Providing it's functional, however limited it may be, a camera is only good as the person operating it. The 518 is not the top of the line, but it's a good place to start.
I've shot super 8 that looks as good as any 16mm, so getting the job done is possible. Do some homework and don't confuse film with video. The net is full of helpful info. Read it. Digest it. Learn.
Best of luck.
Thanks for all that info!!
I adjusted the projector and now the image is awesome, way better than I first saw the other day. It was like 2 types of focus.. one did an ok job and was clear but muddy.. then I went passed that and it seemed to have another focus beyond that which was just all beautiful. Hard to explain but most the shots besides into the sun were great!
Back lite shots can look fantastic!First you need a deep lens hood, Matt box or perhaps a French Flag to block the suns light from kicking into the lens.
The best way to check this is with the camera on a tripod aimed at your subject. Then go around the front of the camera and stand on one side or the other. Look into the lens. Do you see the sun or a spectral highlights in the lens?
So so re-position the camera or the lens shade / gobo / french flag. ( In some re position your subject. )
You will need to meter the face with a reflective mete or use an incident meter aimed at the camera. Use your hand to block the suns rays from striking the dome. Use this exposure to set the camera. The sun will act as a key fill and back light all in one. If you need more light on your subject try using a white foam core board to kick light back on the face.
If you first take a meter reading then add a fill card, you should re-meter the light and re-set your F stop.
If you do not have a hand held meter, you can remove the camera from the tripod. Then go in close, and get a meter reading of your subjects face. Set your camera to this reading and place the Camera back on the tripod.
Braking the rank amateur rules is more fun and will work if you know what your doing.
Many of the best people shots are done back lite.
A big deep lens shade/hood is an excellent idea. If the flare is evenly distributed over the frame, you can actually adjust it out either as you transfer the film to video or when you edit your transfered footage.
I think the camera you have is perfect,
but yeah, shooting into the sun can be interesting, good for getting a silhoette.
i have had nothing but good experiences with the inbuilt light meters, just remember, it receives light only from what you are pointing it at, if you move to the side, the light will be different. i always use manual exposure, but i always check the exposure on auto first. then i set it on the average.
until you discover the advantages of the 85 filter, leave it in place unless shooting with extra lights.
the camera is a good one, when you later want to squeeze the most out of super8, but up!
i hope this helps.
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